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Deep Dive into Skin Feel Chemistry - Understanding Carrier Oils in Body Scrubs

by Coffee Analytica Team

The sensory experience of using body scrubs can vary dramatically based on the carrier oils used, due to their unique chemical compositions. This blog explores in-depth the chemistry behind the distinct sensations - ranging from highly moisturising and slippery to quickly absorbed and non-greasy - that different carrier oils provide.

Understanding Carrier Oils Chemistry

Carrier oils are primarily composed of fatty acids, which determine their physical properties and how they interact with the skin. Two major categories impacting skin feel are oleic acid-rich oils and linoleic or ricinoleic acid-rich oils.

1. Oleic Acid-Rich Oils: Super Slippery Feel

Examples: Olive oil, Avocado oil, Almond oil

Chemical Properties:

  • Oleic acid is a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid with a thicker, richer consistency.

  • Its molecular structure allows it to remain on the skin's surface longer, forming a protective, emollient layer.

Skin Feel and Benefits:

  • Provides deep, prolonged moisturisation.

  • Leaves a noticeably smooth, lubricated feel on the skin, ideal for dry skin or colder climates.

  • Enhances barrier function, protecting skin from moisture loss and external stressors.

2. Linoleic Acid and Ricinoleic Acid-Rich Oils: Less Slippery Feel

Examples: Grapeseed oil, Sunflower oil (Linoleic), Castor oil (Ricinoleic)

Chemical Properties:

  • Linoleic acid is an omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid with a lighter molecular structure, facilitating quicker absorption.

  • Ricinoleic acid, unique to castor oil, is a monounsaturated fatty acid with potent cleansing properties due to its hydroxyl functional group.

Skin Feel and Benefits:

  • Rapid absorption leads to a non-greasy, lightweight feel.

  • Helps balance skin oils, making these suitable for oily or combination skin types.

  • Effective for deep cleansing, unclogging pores, and leaving skin refreshed without residue.

Mechanism of Action on Skin

  • Oleic Acid: Its heavier, larger molecules remain mostly on the skin surface, providing a long-lasting moisturising layer, beneficial for dehydrated or mature skin.

  • Linoleic and Ricinoleic Acids: Smaller molecules penetrate skin layers more effectively, offering immediate nourishment without heavy residual feel, benefiting acne-prone or sensitive skin.

Choosing the Right Oil for Your Scrub

  • Dry or Mature Skin: Opt for oleic acid-rich oils to maintain hydration and elasticity.

  • Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Linoleic or ricinoleic acid-rich oils are ideal for balancing oil production and preventing clogged pores.

  • Normal or Combination Skin: Blending oils can achieve optimal moisturisation with balanced absorption.

Conclusion - Tailoring Your Skincare Experience

Understanding the chemistry of carrier oils empowers you to select body scrubs tailored to your skin type and personal preferences. By choosing oils based on their fatty acid profiles, you can significantly enhance your skincare results, achieving healthy, comfortable, and optimally moisturised skin.


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